What's That? Communicating
Veganism through Absurd Fashion
1)* Syifa� Hasna Nur Azizah, 2)
Tri Adinda, 3) Annisa Fadillasari, 4)
Kholin Pratiwi, 5) Eka Zahra Husna Luthfiyah, 6) Nabila Fitriani, 7) Erly
Ramadhani
Universitas Islam Negeri Raden Mas Said Surakarta, Indonesia
*Email: 1) [email protected], [email protected]2, [email protected]3, [email protected]4 , �[email protected]5, [email protected]6, [email protected]7
*Correspondence: 1) Syifa� Hasna Nur Azizah
DOI: 10.59141/comserva.v4i4.1419 |
ABSTRACT This research explores the communication dynamics in absurd fashion,
focusing on the sender-receiver model through Instagram captions and designs.
Findings reveal that absurd fashion predominantly communicates through the
sender-receiver model, where designers convey messages or critiques through
their creations, and consumers interpret them accordingly. The axis of
communication in absurd fashion revolves around issues such as, vegetables,
and health, reflecting critiques, awareness campaigns, and shifts towards
sustainability. Innovative material use, such as vegetables, fruits, and
eco-friendly alternatives, displays the industry's commitment to
sustainability and environmental awareness. Absurd fashion is a venue for
societal analysis and action, in addition to being a means of self-expression.
By embracing absurdity in fashion, designers and customers participate in a
conversation that goes beyond aesthetics to address important societal and
environmental issues. This research focuses light on fashion's
transformational power as a communication medium, emphasizing the
significance of understanding the ethical and social ramifications of design
decisions in the modern fashion world. Keywords: Absurdity, Fashion, Communication Model, Sender
Receiver, Instagram Account |
PENDAHULUAN
Fashion
is one of the reasons why humans create a form of art representation poured by
designers who produce ideas between fashion and art. In the early 20th century,
historian James Laver has a definition of fashion as "the furniture of the
mind made visible" (Lurie 1981:3). It can be understood that visible
fashion is something attached to the body, such as clothing, jewellery, or
other fashion modifications. The creativity of these designers produces quite
diverse fashion modifications. This is where an interesting fashion emerges
from the diversity of a fashion, namely a strange fashion model. The fashion
assessment does not stop here; unfashionable and strange items are also
included in the mention of fashion models. In general, absurd fashion is more
familiar with the culture of Western countries that dare to display different
fashion from other countries. Their works are poured into several social media,
including the Instagram platform. The fashion images are captioned to convey
certain messages. The following Instagram caption images might help us
understand the absurdity of the fashion displayed :
Figure 1. Instagram
@veganfashionweek
In
fashion, absurdity is a popular theme expressed by designers. Besides being
visible in the fashion design details, absurdity can also be communicated
through captions written on social media such as Instagram. A caption explains
and conveys messages through pictures or videos of the fashion displayed. One
event, Veganfashionweek, holds fashion week
activities on its Instagram account, which displays many unique and creative
fashion designs. The fashion shown in this event has a sender-and-receiver
communication model. Designers have a message to convey a form of protest
behind the fashion they have designed. An example is the fashion design by
Matea Benedetti, seen on Vegan Fashion Week's Instagram post. It is a unique
fashion that presents a magnificent dragon scale-shaped, blood-red dress made
of apple skin. They took the Cruelty-Free design concept, which aims to oppose
and protest the use of animal-derived materials. The communication model used
by Vegan Fashion Week is usually found in every post caption on its Instagram
account. An example of a caption from one of Veganfashionweek's
Instagram account posts is as follows :
"Cruelty-free seems like the
least we can pay for as a society. Taking a minute or so to check the
cruelty-free status of a pair of shoes or a brand of scarf seems like no time
at all to ensure that money does not fall into the hands of animal abusers. The
vegan fashion market is expected to reach new highs that continue to rise each
year, and the vegan leather market alone is expected to reach $85 billion by
2025 (let's work towards making that market sustainable). Cruelty-free is fast
becoming the most sought-after label on a shampoo bottle, and designers
worldwide are pledging to go fur-free. We live in very exciting times where big
changes are happening, but this also means that we as individuals and consumers
hold power, and everyone knows that great power comes great
responsibility."
From
the caption, it can be analysed that the designers who joined the Vegan Fashion
Week event were against exploiting animals used as materials in designing
fashion. The idea of fashion as a sender and receiver of messages can be seen
through the clothes displayed and also supported by captions that describe the
intention of the clothes. In this outfit, the attraction for the audience was
the detail of the scales that filled the top of the outfit, shaped like dragon
scales but using natural materials. This is a message from the designer that
other alternatives can still be used as raw materials for making clothes
without exploiting animals.
In
fashion, absurdity is a captivating phenomenon that often involves deliberately
breaking conventional norms and expectations embracing unconventional and
avant-garde ideas (Halay, 2016). Fashion is a prominent form of communication (Barnard, 2020), precisely non-verbal
communication (Wiana, 2016), allowing individuals to
express their style. Moreover, clothing is a semiotic symbol because it
communicates much about an individual�s personality (Sanni & Okocha, 2022). The semiotic significance
was also highlighted in Sari's study (2015). Wenwen
(2019) also disclosed that fashion and clothing can be used as meaning-making
systems through semiotics.
The
gap of this research is absurd fashion communication by including fashion using
the sender or receiver communication model caption. This contrasts previous
studies, most of which discuss fashion communication models in general and are
well-studied using semiotics and message communication models. To prove that
the absurd form of fashion communication uses the sender or receiver model,
researchers collect data sources in the form of absurd fashion images taken
from the Instagram platform where in each different fashion image, the designer
as a sender shows a fashion model designed with the aim that individuals or
groups can receive the message stored through the absurd form of fashion as the
recipient object.
The
theories we employed in this study are Charles Antaki's (2003) theory of the
uses of absurdity. According to Charles, absurdity can have various uses in
communication. Whether used to challenge norms, generate humour, critique
society, or provide comfort, the intentional use of absurdity can significantly
shape meaning and foster understanding. We also used the theory from Malcolm (Barnard, 2014). Barnard argues that fashion
is not merely a means of self-expression but a form of communication in its own
right. He emphasises that fashion encompasses more than clothing, accessories,
hairstyles, and body modifications.
Fashion
not only functions as a means to cover the outer body but also can become a
form that represents the social values of a particular regional community,
either individually or in groups. Based on (Saravanan & Nithyaprakash, 2015), fashion is not an ambitious
projected reflection of a proper reinterpretation of old values to fulfill a function or agenda, but rather something
evocative and refreshing concept that is worthy enough to be described as
conveying the appreciation of society to make us balanced. The phenomenon of
fashion is an interactive process through which individuals in societal groups
consciously project their body shapes in different ways in each form of fashion
(Barnard, 2013). As implied by (Susanti, 2016), every fashion must contain a
certain message that the wearer wants to convey, which is considered true by
many people. Therefore, with the clothes worn, it is expected to be able to
assess the signs displayed through the clothes worn.
Fashion
can be considered a language that individuals use to convey various messages,
ranging from personal identity to worldview. Clothing choices can serve as a
means of self-expression, allowing individuals to create a style that reflects
who they are and how they want to be perceived by others. Apart from that,
fashion acts as a platform for creative expression. Individuals can create
vibrant and expressive works of art through colour, texture, and design.
Cultural messages are often embedded in fashion, with clothing choices
reflecting affiliation and appreciation for a particular cultural heritage.
Messages in fashion can include changing perceptions of societal norms,
breaking down traditional boundaries, and stimulating critical thinking (Barnard, 2017). As a fashion wearer, each
individual can convey a personal message through the choice of style, colour,
and accessories, proving that fashion is not only about physical appearance but
also about how we communicate with the world around us. Fashion is not just a
way to cover the body, but also a powerful communication tool. Every element in
fashion, from clothing to accessories, can be thought of as words in a visual
language that form a message that can be received by other people. According to
(Barnard, 2020), modes of communication in
fashion are not just the clothes someone wears, but are also forms of
expression and body language that can convey messages without words.
Fashion
serves as a powerful mode of communication, conveying messages and expressing
identity through various models. Models of communication, as conveyed by (Barnard, 2020), enclose the semiological model of communication and the sender or
receiver model. These models provide different perspectives on how fashion
communicates, emphasising various aspects such as symbolism and expressing
personal and culturally influenced messages. The dynamics of fashion
communication extend beyond the garments themselves. It involves complex
interactions between designers, wearers, and societal influences, shaping a
rich tapestry of messages woven into the fabric of personal and collective expression.
In the communication model which aims to explore the dynamics of fashion above,
(Halay, 2016).
The
research findings show that through the data studied in an absurd fashion, the
dominant form of communication delivery is the sender or receiver rather than
semiotics and messages. This is because fashion models are mostly used as a
form of opinion or support or rejection of an activity between one community
and another. The findings of this research show that the issues of butchering,
vegetables, and health are the axis of communication carried out in an absurd
fashion. Butchering is conveyed by vegan activists to criticise meat lovers,
while vegetables and health are used to raise awareness of the importance of
consuming non-meat foods.
�The researcher found that data concerning
health are fashion categorised as absurd in the context of man-made materials.
Within the health element, the researcher noticed a clear dominance. It is
clear that fashion categorised as absurd often uses ordinary materials that are
used within common norms. This shows that the main focus is on the expressive
and communicative aspects, using fashion as a medium to convey sentiments
rather than relying on traditional semiotic symbols or explicit messages. The
conventional materials used in absurd fashion seem to play an important role in
shaping its identity and strengthening its communicative function. It should be
noted that although the dominance of health elements is highlighted, this does
not negate the potential presence and importance of semiotic elements and
messages in an absurd fashion. There are still nuances and meanings conveyed
through explicit symbols or messages embedded in this conventional form of
fashion. Therefore, even with the dominance of sender or receiver dynamics,
other elements still contribute to the multifaceted communication within the
unique world of absurd fashion.
METODE
This research uses a qualitative descriptive design.
The research data consists of textual and visual elements, analyzed
from the perspective of the fashion communication model and absurdity in the
research source. The data was collected from a social media platform, namely
Instagram. The table below provides a detailed explanation of how the fashion
communication model research data was assessed in the fashion absurdity
category. Furthermore, the use of visual communication design in the form of a
sender-receiver model was used to analyze the shape,
colour, and non-operational elements of the image model.
Textual Data |
|
This absurd fashion design conveys that fashion in
the context of leopards can be made with materials that do not hurt animals.
Such as foam, resin, wool, and silk faux fur with the most realistic
sculpture possible for a smart alternative. This message aims to flick
someone's greed using some parts of the leopard's body as a fashion interest. |
Visual Data |
|
This design is unique and absurd because it adds a
white leopard head on the front, and also the design of the dress uses a
detailed pattern like a real tiger skin, and of course this dress is
dominated by cream colour. Usually this dress is
worn when there is a fashion show or can also be worn when there is an
animal-themed carnival event. meaning The use of the
leopard head is intended to create a dramatic and provocative impression. the
leopard head can also be interpreted as a symbol of strength and elegance. |
Figure 2. Instagram @schiaparelli
����������� The table above shows
absurd fashion images with captions that provide an explanation of the form of
the communication model. Spradley's (2016) data analysis technique was used in
this research. There are four stages of analysis, namely domain, taxonomy,
componential, and finding cultural themes. The first is dominant analysis.
According to (Barnard, 2020), modes of
communication in fashion include not only wearable clothing but also the form
and language of body expression to convey messages. Communication models, as
stated by (Barnard, 2020), include semiological communication models, massage, and sender or
receiver models. After categorizing the semiotic, message, and sender receiver
communication models, taxonomic analysis is an analysis collected after all the
data has been collected and found the research answers. This analysis
categorizes the sender or receiver model of fashion communication according to (Barnard, 2020) and (Halay, 2016) theories of absurd fashion. Next is the componential
analysis. At this stage, researchers create a table that will make it easier to
find the dominant data and researchers can find the relationship between absurd
fashion and communication models so that they can also find cultural themes.
The last phase is the culture theme. The researcher found the cultural theme by
looking at the componential table and summarised this absurd fashion into the
sender or receiver communication model.
HASIL DAN PEMBAHASAN
Vegetables and Health
Vegetables
Research and exploration
of materials such as vegetables and fruits not only discover their aesthetic
value, but through creative designers, these natural materials can also become
one of the breakthroughs in the world of eco-friendly fashion.� The importance of using natural materials is
not only to encourage environmental conservation, but also to give fashion a
new face. The use of plant-based materials in the fashion industry not only
creates an opportunity to change the usual way of consumption, but also allows
designers to produce clothes that are not only environmentally friendly, but
also respectful of nature's diversity. By incorporating the unique textures and
colors of vegetables and fruits, they not only create
style, but also raise awareness of environmental issues. These innovative
measures turn fashion into more than just self-expression and a means to raise
awareness of environmental challenges. Through the promotion of these
sustainable trends, the fashion industry can be a positive force to change
consumer behavior and inspire other sectors to adopt
eco-friendly practices.
|
|
Figure 5. Instagram @veganfashionweek
One of the unique fashion
innovations that has recently become a new breakthrough for designers is the
design of imitating animal scales from apple skins. This design can give an
aesthetically pleasing and unique look. It combines the elegance of nature with
a modern touch. This can be a smart idea in utilizing apple skin waste. In
addition to aesthetics and uniqueness, the apple skin fashion trend with animal
scale designs also inspires changes in consumer attitudes. Environmentally
conscious consumers can create new fashion values according to their fashion
sense, but also support environmental conservation efforts. This is an
opportunity for fashion to be a pioneer in driving sustainable consumption
trends and practices. Creating a positive impact is not only about style but
also about connection with the environment.
|
|
Figure 6. Instagram @veganfashionweek
Another unique model
innovation is the outfit above, which is a long, pure white blouse with splotches
that depict blood. However, here, the designer used a more
eco-friendly alternative and utilised natural materials like vegetable
dyes. This speaks to the audience about issues surrounding animal exploitation,
unfair animal trade, the environment, and animal rights. These can all be
addressed with the use of natural materials as mentioned above, so that animals
are preserved in their habitats.
Health
Healthy materials in
fashion refer to materials that are not harmful to the health of the wearer or
the environment. These materials are usually made from renewable natural
resources, produced using sustainable methods, and do not contain harmful
chemicals. In fashion, the choice of materials has a huge impact on the
well-being of individuals and the environment. Among the materials that can be
used as fashion alternatives are cotton, linen, wool, and hemp, which can have
a good effect on the body, as the material is soft on the skin, does not cause
allergies, and is also biodegradable. Meanwhile, recycled materials can have a
positive impact and be environmentally friendly. Utilising textile waste that
can be processed into new materials can certainly ease the use of natural
resources. Next is using organic materials made from plants without pesticides
and chemical fertilisers, which provide a safe space for health and the
environment. Using the above materials can provide significant benefits by
maintaining the body's health by avoiding harmful materials, protecting the
environment by using materials that can be used sustainably, and supporting the
fashion industry, which is also sustainably oriented. As a consumer, choosing
healthy materials can be a positive step in creating a positive impact on
health and a sustainable environment.
|
|
Figure 7. Instagram @stellamccartney
Another fashion
innovation is found in one of the bag accessories designers, Stella McCartney.
She is one of the designers who is famous for her anti-animal stance. She
creates her work using natural materials. Some of her bags are made using
materials such as mushroom skin. The designer also boasts that each piece can
mimic animal skin without relying on plastic. One of them is the bag above that
looks like the skin of a Phyton snake. The bag was made through innovation and
creativity, not to hurt a single snake. Hence, bags like the one above are made
with some natural materials and recycling of used items.
|
|
Figure 8. Instagram @stellamccartney
The unique fashion
innovation in the picture above is the coat used by Stella, whose caption
explains that she poured innovations by using synthetic materials that have
patterns inspired by tree bark. The philosophy embedded in Stella's idea is
that she sees that tree bark, which is part of a tree, contains millions of
tons of global carbon stored in it. She used vegan materials to replace the
fleece. This is an effort to preserve and maintain the balance of animals in
fashion.
The previous research
presented the findings that emerged from communicating absurdity in fashion and
captions. Absurdity is not only related to eccentric clothing designs but also
involves the communication process between fashion actors as senders and consumers
as receivers. Absurdity communication uses the sender and receiver method,
where fashion designed by designers has an implied message for fashion
consumers. In the context of sender-receiver communication, fashion designers
act as senders. Their fashion designs become a medium to convey ideas,
concepts, or even criticism of trends and social norms. (Mavruk &
Weller, 2017) defines lifestyle or trend as a collective
consumption pattern where fashion has a cultural framework along with the
social system. As receivers, consumers interpret the design's meaning according
to their context and understanding. Absurdity in fashion not only creates a
unique piece but also involves a dialogue between the designer and the
consumer.
The fashion world is now
not only promoted through conventional media such as magazines and newspapers
but also by holding certain events. However, in today's modern era, designers
and fashion companies are starting to penetrate the digital world. One of the
digital media used in promoting fashion design is by using the Instagram
platform which is now popular in the community. The Instagram platform is an
option for conveying the message or meaning of fashion. Shuqair,
S., & Cragg (2016) argue that Instagram content effectively changes viewer
perceptions and influences purchasing behavior for a
promoted product or service. In addition to using photos to promote their
designs, designers also use short writings or captions that describe the
purpose and purpose of the uploaded post. The caption displayed contains
information from the promoted shirt design, such as size, material, colour, or
meaning about the idea of making the fashion. Nevertheless, sometimes the
caption is also written implicitly using words that allude to something.
One of the techniques
used to obtain materials for making absurd fashion is butchering. The technique
of "butchering" in fashion refers to cutting or transforming elements
of animal origin into clothing designs. Reed (2013) describes butchering as
combining boldness and innovation with ethical considerations in the fashion
design process. Butchering can be a form of criticism, satire, and protest by
vegetarians against meat lovers in the fashion world. Butchering encourages
designers to create pieces of clothing that are not only visually appealing,
but also consider the materials used (Reed, 2013). Absurdity in fashion and
butchering techniques are intertwined through the sender-receiver communication
process. Designers use absurdity to express their ideas, while butchering
becomes a means to change existing norms in fashion. Consumers, as receivers,
have an important role in interpreting and responding to the messages conveyed
through the absurd designs of butchering. Butchering in fashion has become a controversial
topic, but it is also an opportunity for the fashion industry to reflect and be
more responsible with innovation and ethics in fashion design practices.
One of these absurdities
is the "Vegetables" element. In the world of fashion, professional
designers have prepared ideas that are simple, extreme, and even unique. One of
them is by using environmentally friendly natural materials such as "Vegetables".
The use of vegetables and fruits is an effort to replace animal materials which
have become a popular choice among designers. When talking about fashion, it is
about model guidelines that are constantly changing (Entwistle 2002; Mears
2011). With the continuous changes in fashion model guidelines,
"Vegetables" elements have become quite a popular trend. Materials
made from vegetables and fruits are considered more ethical because they do not
involve animal exploitation. Designers who embrace this concept not only create
attractive clothes, but also help protect animals from the risk of extinction.
Through this trend, the fashion industry can present itself as an agent of
change that supports sustainability and maintains ecological balance. By introducing
trends such as "Vegetables" into the fashion world, designers aim to
convey that we can create a more eco-friendly
lifestyle without sacrificing creativity and innovation. There is also a need
to continuously raise awareness of the fashion industry's impact on the
environment and animals. Innovations like this also contribute positively to
the movement towards more sustainable practices.
Continuing this very
popular research, the focus now turns to the element of "health".
Health is one of the elements included in the concept of vegan fashion. Vegan
fashion generally refers to products or clothing that do not contain animal ingredients.
In other words, vegan fashion implies a message that a garment is free from
fur, leather, wool, silk, horns, or animal teeth (some accessories also use
animal teeth) (Sascha, 2019). This concept is not just a dress style, but also
a message of awareness for animal protection and ecological balance. Several
ideas to support animal conservation have emerged in the minds of fashion model
activists. The preservation of animal life is a fundamental principle embraced
by vegan fashion advocates, who recognise its importance in upholding the
balance and sustainability of our world. In particular, their influential role
extends to the advancement of inventive creations. However, there are concerns
regarding incorporating animals as primary or secondary elements in fashion,
which may upset the balance of animal existence. In response to this concern,
the vegan community has been actively generating new ideas using eco-friendly
materials. As a testament to their commitment to eco-friendly initiatives,
certain designers have started using green fibres and green fibres, which shows
the dedication of the Vegan community in pushing for sustainable solutions. Not
only do we want 100 per cent vegan products, but we also want vegan products
made with healthy ingredients that certainly do not harm our bodies (Sascha,
2019). Vegan fashion is more than just clothing and encompasses a holistic
movement that includes health awareness, animal preservation, and environmental
care. Therefore, its impact is not limited to the field of fashion, but is
recognised as an important component in realising a sustainable future and
achieving a harmonious lifestyle.
SIMPULAN
Fashion is one of the reasons humans create a form of
art representation poured by designers who gave birth to the idea of combining
fashion and art. In the early 20th century, historian James Laver has a
definition of fashion, that fashion is "the furniture of the mind made
visible". Fashion serves as a prominent form of communication,
specifically non-verbal communication (Wiana, 2016),
which allows individuals to express their personal style. In fashion, absurdity
is a popular theme expressed by designers. Besides being seen in the details of
fashion designs, absurdity can also be communicated through captions written on
social media such as Instagram. Captions are used to explain and convey
messages through pictures or videos of the fashion displayed. There is one
event that organizes fashion week activities, Veganfashionweek,
in its Instagram account which displays many unique and creative fashion
designs
The form of communication in absurd fashion is
sender-receiver rather than semiotic or message. This is because fashion models
are more widely used as a form of opinion, support, or rejection of an activity
between one community and another. The findings of this research show that the
issues of butchering, vegetables, and health are the axis of communication that
is carried out absurdly. Butchering� is a form of activity by meat lovers
in the process of obtaining materials for making clothes. Butchering� tanning refers to cutting and
preparing animal skins for use in fashion. Clothing made by Meat lovers
following the concept has a form of communication about how they view making
real animals as fashion materials, be it clothes, bags, or other accessories.
Through the sender-receiver communication type, they express their ideal concept
of the fashion world to other groups who reject animal body parts in fashion.
As stated by sani, fashion presentation allows
individuals to express their personal style. The use of vegetable and health
ingredients in the fashion industry not only creates an opportunity to change
the usual way of consumption, but also allows designers to produce clothes that
are not only environmentally friendly, but also respect the diversity of
nature. By incorporating the unique textures and colours of vegetables and
fruits, they not only create style, but also raise awareness of environmental
issues. These innovative measures turn fashion into more than just
self-expression and a means to raise awareness of environmental challenges.
Absurd fashion
design can be a medium to convey ideas and concepts, or even criticize social
trends and norms and define a lifestyle or trend within a community, by using
the sender-receiver method as a form of communication in fashion design that is
then shown through fashion shows or posts on popular media accounts. Designers
and fashion users are the senders of messages expressed through fashion design,
and consumers are the receivers of messages who then interpret the meaning of
the design according to their context and understanding. Absurdity in fashion
creates a unique piece and involves a dialogue between the designer and the
consumer. In addition to getting unique fashion designs, appreciation from the
public, it can also help convey solutions to social problems, either in the
form of campaigns or overt demonstrations
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